Geetha Rao
Times News Network
WHY are there no cobblers' booths on the streets of Germany? Because the shoes were made so well they didn't need repairs - they were told. Kolhapuri artisans from Toehold,
Athani, Belgaum, at the GDS International Shoe Fair,
Dusseldorf, Germany, made a mental note of that - It was a lesson in quality standards. And quickly adapted them into the Kolhapuri chappals they made back home. In fact, it is this alacrity that has seen a phenomenal increase in Toehold's exports: from $7000 last year to $54,000 this year, with their Kolhapuris creating waves in fashion circles in Japan, Italy, Australia.
"Soon, you saw a change in the product. Earlier, the chappals were rustic, rugged, did not adhere to any standards. There were differences between the right and the left
chappal. You had to try many on to find the right size. The chappals had to be soaked in water to soften them before use", says Madhura
Chatrapathy, Trustee-Director, ASCENT, the organisation that guided Toehold. |
Soon, the cardboard within was discarded, nails made way for stitches and adhesives; beads, swarovski crystals, raw silk, mat, lace, plaits, braids and weaves adorned them.
Branding took over. They were given exotic names. Silken Charm, Twinkle Toes, Innoweave. At the same time, the traditional designs of Veni
(braids), kapsi (with teardrop-shaped toes), bantu (closed toes) assumed another avatar. Creativity overflowed - 300 designs so far. New sole shapes evolved - Eva, Apple, Oval-teen, Rocket, Trapeze, Fan.
Within four years, Toehold has become the story of success in NGO annals. "In Kolhapuris, men fashion the lower sole, and women the inner sole and uppers.
In spite of their contribution, women were not given their due. So we decided to form them into Self Help Groups (SHG). After some months, the men were included, but the women would continue to be the stakeholders. Yet men would receive training." Now couples work together, and it has coalesced families. There are 11 SHGs and 200 families involved in Toehold. |
The women have become financially independent. One of them, Balabai Kamble, had her husband released from bonded labour, after saving up Rs.13,400 to clear his debt with a trader.
She saved the money on her trip to Germany where she went to participate in the GDS International Footwear Exhibition!
Their lives have changed in other ways. Alcoholism is on the decline to some extent, and the children go to good schools. The women have learnt to shake hands with their male business associates from other countries in the presence of their husbands, and the husbands accept it without demur.
And they have learnt to say "Wow." A word they hear often as customers respond with amazement to the Kolhapuri chappals they showcase at international fairs.
geetrao@indiatimes.com |